Seven Days on an Island - Part 1

Spring is here the island is coming alive with wildlife. Next week we also see the arrival of the first ship of the summer season. The L'Astrolabe is due here next Friday, bringing 15 extra people to the island. Some of the new arrivals are scientists who will be working down island during the summer.

This has meant that current expeditioners have been trying to find time to make it down island themselves, as it will be more difficult once the summer program starts.

I took the opportunity to walk down island. I organised a seven day break, the field trip plan had been submitted and approved, my position on the fire and ERT ( Emergency Response Team) had been covered.  Comms tech Tony had also been given approval, so we were set to go.

The following is a mostly photographic journal of the trip.

After filling out the details of our intentions on the fire board (in the mess) and the comms board, we set off just after 11am on the first leg of our journey. We had only got 300 metres down the track when I realised had dropped my lens cap, so I re-traced my steps, but couldn't find it. In my room I found a plastic bag and rubber band which would offer interim protection for my lens.

I returned to the track and then Tony and I were on our way again. First task - climb up Gadgets Gully.

Heading up Gadgets Gully - king penguins are coming in droves to moult and breed

About halfway up Gadgets Gully we spotted this Light-mantled Sooty Albatross roosting on the grassy slope 

Tony leaning back on the scree slope in Gadgets Gully taking photos of the albatross

At the top of Gadgets Gully is a small weir and the catchment area for the stations water supply. After reaching the top of the gully there is a short respite until you have to climb again to reach the top of the plateau.

At the top of the steeper slope to the plateau, after crossing the water catchment at the top of Gadgets Gully

We reached the junction of the Overland Track (OLT and the Island Lake Track (ILT) and took the left turn down the OLT to the south. It is an undulating track, constantly rising and falling. After a little while I was in a rhythm and enjoying the beautiful day.

After around 2 km the OLT comes close to the steep eastern escarpment. From here it was a wonderful view down to the Nuggets, and the huge royal penguin colony up the slope on Rookery and Nuggets Creeks.

The huge Royal Penguin colonies upslope from the Nuggets

Close up of the huge Royal Penguin colony upslope from the Nuggets

It is hard to believe but the penguin colonies are not yet to full capacity. 

We continued south, over the undulating OLT, though the general trend was that we were losing height. After another 3.5 km we reached the 'four ways', a junction between the OLT, Sandy Bay Track and Bauer Bay Track, where we stopped briefly for a lunch break.

Looking towards Brothers Point "somewhere under the rainbow"

From high on the plateau - zoomed in to Brothers Point and the hut

Four Ways - view to the east with the Sandy Bay track visible

After lunch we continued south, gradually rising up out of the valley at Four Ways and then just after crossing a ridge just south of the Brothers Track turn off we had a great view down the Red River valley and beyond to Green Gorge.

Me at the Brothers track turn-off. The track was pretty muddy and luckily the gortex pants and gators kept the mud and water out of my boots

Approaching Green Gorge - the track drops down into a wide flat (wet) valley after the next little ridge

Green Gorge hut in sight - the dark rocky area around the middle of the picture.

After dropping down onto the flat valley near Green Gorge, the walk was through very wet, boggy featherbed, making the last part of our days walk a little tough.

We finally reached the hut at 1730 and were grateful for a nice hot cup of tea. We had covered around 18.2 km for the day. 

I finally made it to Green Gorge hut. While unpacking my pack, I found my missing lens cap.

Our overnight stay was very comfortable, though we were serenaded by the many seals and penguins close by on the beach.  We were both up early (7am), taking our time to enjoy a breakfast of porridge and fruit, and then take in the wildlife and scenery that is around the iconic Green Gorge hut.

Breakfast at Green Gorge hut

Shangri-La - used for storage and overflow accommodation

The beach at Green Gorge hut - teeming with life

King penguins at Green Gorge

King Penguins at Green Gorge - many of the adults have come in to moult

View of Green Gorge hut and the wildlife on the beach - taken from the steps above the hut

We had a big days walk planned, so we were ready to leave just after 0845. I felt pretty good as we made our way along the wet featherbed. We then climbed slowly out of the valley, which wasn't as bad as I thought. After a couple of kilometres I started to feel a blister developing on the instep of my right foot. After 3 km we stopped to tend to my blister. Tony had extensive plasters and patches which did the trick.

Looking north after leaving Green Gorge - we had just climbed  out of the valley

Looking north - we had just walked up the right hand side of the  long valley (you can make out the track at the base of the slope)

Looking south from the same position - just over the next ridge is Pyramid Peak and Pyramid Lake

After walking along the shore of Pyramid Lake we reached the next junction in the track. The track on the left took you down to Waterfall Bay. We continued along the OLT, which in some parts was wet and muddy.

Continuing south along the OLT - very scenic

Around 5km out of Green Gorge we came to another junction in the track we left the OLT and walked along the Tiobunga Track which would bring us closer to the west coast. Near the shore of Major Lake we ventured around 50 metres to the west of the track, which took us to the edge of the western escarpment. It was a view to behold!

Major Lake - about 3/4 the way down island

West Coast - from the top of the escarpment looking south towards  CapeToutcher

West Coast - from the top of the escarpment looking north across Sandell Bay and Davis Point and Double Point

Sandell Bay on the West Coast - Me on top of the escarpment

West Coast - from the top of the escarpment - you can see a huge elephant seal harem on the beach

A kilometre along from Major Lake we came to Tiobunga hut which lies on the shore of Tiobunga Lake. The hut is a water tank that has been refurbished. Several such huts were installed around the island to provide safe, comfortable shelters for the MIPEP teams that have been working on the island over the last few years. They are quite small, and are ideal for two people, though 3 or 4 can be accommodated at a squeeze.

We were warmly greeted by Karen and Mike (two of the MIPEP crew) and we gladly excepted a nice hot cup of tea and a few pieces of Chocolate slice that Karen had made that morning. We were also invited to stay for lunch (pasta).

Karen and Tony inside Tiobunga (water tank) hut

After the warmth and hospitality Karen and Mike at Tiobunga hut, we had to be on our way. Karen gave us each a piece of the delightful chocolate slice wrapped in alfoil.

I was glad that Tony suggested that we take the longer route via Tiobunga, the walk to the south away from the hut is very scenic, especially as the weather was great.

Walking south alongside Tiobunga Lake - Mt Hamilton ( the left peak) at 410m is the equal highest point on the island (Mt Fletcher a further 2km south is the same height)

Looking back to the northwest at Tiobunga Lake and the hut on the opposite shore

Our last look back at Tiobunga Lake

The wind swept ridge to the east just before we re-joined the OLT (the OLT marker can be seen)

We reached the next junction, joining back up with the OLT. Just a little further on we came another side track on the right which led to Windy Ridge hut (another water tank identical to Tiobunga).

We were anxious to continue so after taking some photos we made our way along Windy Ridge. Apparently on this exposed ridge, one can encounter some fierce winds, but today the winds were light and the walk was on a easy smooth gravel track. After a couple of kilometres we dropped off the ridge into a small gully that was Whisky Creek which drained into the large Waterfall Lake to the west.

From the OLT - Looking northeast towards Lusitania creek valley 

Windy Ridge hut next to a unnamed lake

Walking south across Windy Ridge (' the freeway')

View west down the Whisky Creek valley with Waterfall Lake in the distance

Whisky Creek

We finally reached the end of the OLT at around 1600. As the weather was still nice and the winds light we decided to drop our packs at the junction and take a wander down the track to the left to try and see if we could get a good view.

From the top of the Scree Track jump down we had an amazing view of Hurd Point, the hut and the enormous amounts of wildlife on the coast.

View to the southeast - Hurd Point from the top of the Scree jump down - You can see the huge royal penguin colony, large seal harems and the Hurd Point hut far below

View to the southwest - Hurd Point hut in the bottom left and the Grassy jump-up slope on the right

Zoomed in view of Hurd Point hut - surrounded by the abundant wildlife

We returned to the junction where our packs were. We made our way west along the Link Track that brought us to the top of the Grassy Jump-up.

The slope looked very steep and daunting. I was amazed to see several gentoo penguins roosting about 10 metres down from the top. After taking in the views it was time to make our way down the slope.

It was awesome - once I got going it didn't seem that bad. However I was very careful, mindful of the danger and took my time. At some steeper parts amongst the tussock I slid down on my backside. It took about 45 minutes to reach the bottom.

At the top of the Grassy Jump-up, contemplating the descent - Note the gentoo penguins

Tony below me, slowly making his way down the Grassy Jump-up

Nearly there

Finally glad to be close to sea level. We made our way along the beach, arriving at the hut at 1800. It was only after I removed my pack, that I realised how exhausted I was.

We had just walked 19.9 km (37.6 km in two days) through the most amazing World Heritage Park that is Macquarie Island.

I was thankful to get my boots off and examine my blistered feet. They had made it down the entire length of the island.

Rest day tomorrow. 

Tony chilling out in the very comfortable and roomy Hurd Point hut

Kitchen and food storage at Hurd Pint hut - The cold porch and entrance to the hut is on the left

Next Time.... The trip continues - An amazing day at Hurd Point, then heading back to the north, stopping at Lusitania Bay, Waterfall Bay and eventually reaching Green Gorge again.