In my last post -
Seven Days on an Island Part 1 - we had journeyed the whole length of Macquarie Island, arriving at the comfortable and roomy Hurd Point hut.
Day 3 of our trip was a rest day at Hurd Point. After a hearty breakfast of toast (Tony baked a loaf of bread) we set off to explore our surroundings. Firstly I wandered around the beach just to the west of the hut. I couldn't believe the abundance and variety of wildlife.
Next door (just to the west) of the hut is a small royal penguin colony which provided a little noise overnight.
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| Small royal penguin colony right next door to the Hurd Point hut |
Along the beach is a large elephant seal harem, consisting of several hundred females, about half of them with pups. Newborn pups weigh around 40 kg (88 lb) and are typically covered in black fur. After around 21 days they are weaned and leave the harem. In that 21 days the gain weight at an extraordinary rate (rich milk which is around 60% fat) and weigh 120 to 130 kg (260 to 290 lb).
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| The large elephant seal harem on the beach near Hurd Point hut. A weaner can be seen just to the right of the harem |
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| Looking east towards Hurd point hut and the elephant seal harem. You can also see the royal penguins near the hut and a skua in flight |
The sun came out and the winds were light - a rare day at Hurd Point. We took advantage of the superb weather, making our way along a track through the tussock to the east. You can hear and smell the enormous royal penguin colony before you see it.
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| Our first glimpse at the huge royal penguin colony at Hurd Point - On the beach is another large elephant seal harem |
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| Overall view of the royals at Hurd Point |
The royal penguin colony at Hurd Point is populated by around 500,000 breeding pairs (late October) that is one million adult birds in a few hectares. While we were there they were still coming into the beach in their hundreds. The colony extended around the corner of the bluff so we were not able to see the entire colony.
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| Thousands upon thousands of royal penguins packed into a small area |
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| In a few more weeks there will be thousands more |
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| This was one of the most amazing things I have ever seen or heard |
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| A month before there were no penguins here |
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| The incoming penguins had to run the gauntlet through the elephant seal harem |
The story of the royal penguins is remarkable. After breeding, in most cases 2 eggs are laid. Both parents take turns at sitting on the nest in 12 day stints. The eggs are incubated for 35 days and after hatching, the male tends to the chick(s) for 10 to 20 days while the female brings food for both of them. Usually only one of the chicks or eggs survive.
After 3 weeks of brooding, both adults take to the sea to forage, leaving the chicks to form large creches. The chicks then fledge after about 2 months with the adults coming in to feed them 2 or 3 times a day.
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| It is amazing how the penguin pairs fin each other |
After an hour of taking in the sights, sounds and smell of the colony, we returned to the hut via the coast amongst the impressive rock stacks. The sun was out and there was very little wind which made for excellent photographic conditions.
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| Broken penguin egg shell amongst the tussock |
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| Feather (probably from a GP) with dew drops |
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| The sun really brightens the colours of the tussock and escarpment |
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| Gentoo penguin amongst the tussock |
Near to the hut, there is some spectacular rock stacks covered in tussock and brightly coloured mosses and lichen. With such nice conditions it was like wandering through a primeval wonderland. I also managed to find a pond in which to take a 'reflective' photo.
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| An impressive rock stack near Hurd Point hut. The Grassy jump-up can be seen in the background |
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| Tony making his way through the tussock covered rock stacks to the hut which is around 150 metres away. Again the very steep Grassy jump-up can be seen in the background. |
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| Rock stack with character |
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| Path through the tussock to the beach just in front of Hurd Point hut. You can make out the 'archway' rock in the distance |
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| Reflections of steep escarpment and rock stacks near Hurd Point hut |
From just in front of the hut the views along the coast to the west were stunning, especially as the wind was calm and the sun was still out bringing out the vibrant, contrasting colours of the landscape and wildlife.
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| The archway to the west of Hurd Point hut |
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| The steep slopes of the south coast of Macquarie Island |
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| View to the west from just in front of Hurd Point hut |
After lunch, while Tony did some work with the comms stuff in the hut, I went for a short walk on the beach to the west of the hut. Conditions were still great, though as the afternoon wore on the cloud increased.
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| In front of the royal penguin colony at Hurd Point |
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| The tussock is so tenacious on the rock stacks |
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| Sub-Antarctic garden at Hurd Point |
Billy and Tom (MIPEP) were working in the area and radioed that they were coming to Hurd Point for the night. Unfortunately Billy lost his camera (in a dry bag) on the way from Windy Ridge to Hurd Point. Tom decided to help Billy look for it, so they retraced the GPS route that Billy had taken.
At around 8.00pm an excited Billy was on the radio announcing that his dogs had found the camera which had rolled 10 metres down an embankment not far from Windy Ridge.
Billy and Tom finally arrived at Hurd Point hut at 9:40pm. By this time steady rain was falling and they were both grateful that we had a hot meal prepared for them.
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| Billy and Colin at the top of the Grassy jump-up - before he realised that his camera was missing |
The next day dawned more typical of Macca - overcast and drizzle after some heavy overnight rain. The forecast wasn't good for the day with 25 to 35 knots of wind expected. We were ready to go at 0930. We made our way along the track through the tussock to the creek jump-up. Because the forecast was for rain, drizzle and snow, I packed my camera into my pack where it would be safe and dry. I used my video camera, as it was easier to tuck into my weather proof jacket.
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| One last look at the royal penguin colony before making the jump-up |
The creek jump-up was a lot easier then I expected and after 40 minutes we reached the top. Of course we were protected in the creek gully and as soon as we came out over the top we were struck by a ferocious wind.
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| Making our way steadily up the Hurd Point Creek jump-up |
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| At the top of the Hurd Point Creek jump-up |
Once on the top, I realised that I should put on some more clothes. I was prepared as I had packed the clothes at the top of my pack and it wasn't long before I was well protected form the cold wet and windy weather.
We headed off towards the north along the OLT (Overland Track). It was such a contrast from a couple of days ago. The wind was coming at us from the side and the visibility was poor as we were in cloud and drizzle. I am glad that I had 2 walking poles which saved me from being blown over.
Just when I thought the wind couldn't get any stronger, we made it to Windy Ridge. This time it lived up to its name and reputation. It was quite difficult to stay on your feet let alone stay on the track. For about 1.5 km we were buffeted by 50 to 70 knot winds. Many times I had to just stop and lean into the wind.
Just after passing Windy Ridge hut we came to a junction in the track. We veered to the right along the South Lusitania Track. Fortunately it was mostly down hill, following the narrow Lusitania Creek down this beautiful valley. It was also protected from most of the wind, though the drizzly rain continued.
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| South Lusitania Track - following the Lusitania Creek |
At the bottom of the valley the creek took a sharp right turn towards the coast. A track (of sorts) followed the creek ravine to come out 300 metres later onto the beach at Lusitania Bay. We were not permitted to go on the beach, so we made our way along the tussock until we found a spot out of the wind. Here we had lunch and had an amazing view of the huge king penguin colony.
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| Part of the king penguin colony at Lusitania Bay |
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| An amazing sight. They are such a beautiful penguin |
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| King penguins at Lusitania Bay - Note the rusted digesters which were used by a penguin harvesting company - they harvested around 4000 penguins a day |
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| The king penguin colony wasn't full. At the peak there is very little space left on the beach |
I would have loved to stay longer to take in all the wonderful sights and sounds, but after sitting in the wet tussock for half an hour (in sub-zero temperatures), we were getting quite cold so decided to leave. My gloves were wet and I could not feel any one of my fingers.
We made our way back up the steep and winding ravine. By the time we got back to the track junction the feeling was slowly returning to my fingers.
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| Lusitania Creek ravine - the track basically runs along the creek and slopes of the ravine |
AS we made our way up the ABC track the wind funnelled up the valley from behind. While Tony climbed up to the lookout over Lusitania Bay, I rested behind a small rock stack after being knocked over two times by the fierce winds.
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| On the ABC track - resting and trying to shelter from the ferocious wind |
The wind was never ending as we slowly made our way up the ABC track, eventually reaching the junction of the Mt Martin Track.
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| On the ABC track- looking back towards the south |
At the junction we had a short break and as the weather had improved I took my SLR camera out of my pack. We then made our way down the Mt Martin Track which initially slowly descended towards the edge of the escarpment.
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| On the Mt Martin track - at the top of the escarpment looking south along the east coast |
On reaching the top edge of the escarpment we had a grey view over another large royal penguin colony on the coastal plain. Just a little bit further on we could see down to Waterfall Bay hut. The jump-down to the coast is almost as steep as the Grassy jump-up at Hurd Point. It was a great relief to finally make it back to sea level.
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| From the top of the escarpment on the east coast - another large royal penguin colony |
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| Another steep drop to the coast with Waterfall Bay hut in sight |
Karen and Steve were staying at the hut and we gave them a call on the radio when we were at the top of the jump-up. When we finally made it to Waterfall Bay hut, a nice hot cup of tea awaited us. Shortly after we had a very tasty risotto, that Steve had made. This was followed by desert of cherry chocolate browny, also made by Steve. We had a great night, playing scrabble - Steve and Karen vs Tony and Barry. We lost by over 100 points. It didn't help that K & S managed to have the letters Q, X, Z, J and K.
Another great day - We covered 11.7 km bringing the total to 52.7 km.
The next morning Karen and Steve left at 0900. It was blowing a gale and frequent snow showers. It took me another hour tending to my blistered feet. We finally left at 1030. Because of the weather My cameras stayed in my pack and jacket.
We followed the Jessie Niccol Track (name of a ship wreck). This took us along the coastal tussock and wallow. After 1.5km we headed up a shorter steep jump-up. Just north of here is another large royal penguin colony.
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| A royal penguin colony about 1.5 km north of the Waterfall Bay hut |
After the jump-up the track is undulating, though slowly rising up joining up again with the OLT at Pyramid Lake. The track then slowly descends along side a valley into Green Gorge.
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| The Jessie Niccol Track - looking north towards the distant Pyramid Peak |
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The Overland Track heading north towards Green Gorge
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Before we knew it we were descending the final slope into Green Gorge, arriving at the hut at 1320 - a 7.9 km journey which took just under 3 hours. Total walked so far 60.6 km.
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| Tony already at the bottom of the final descent into Green Gorge |
Until next time...... The wonder that is Green Gorge, then Brothers Point and our final push back to VJM.
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