Field Training - Macca style

A Note before I proceed - This post (and some future posts) will feature more photographs then previous posts. Up until this afternoon I have taken just over 4000 pictures on my new camera, so it is hard to choose just a handful of photos for each post - I Hope You don't mind??

Three Macquarie shags flying south - a few days before we set off in the same direction on our field training

Field training is a very important requirement for expeditioners on each of the Antarctic bases. This is especially important on Macquarie Island as the rugged terrain and weather conditions need to be considered when travelling around the island.

We have a dedicated field training officer (FTO) for the year - Marty. He provided us with much of the pre-departure training in survival, SAR and boating. 

Before the MIPEP crew could go out in the field - they had to go through 5 days of field training. Now it was our turn. 

I was in the last group, with Aaron and Tony (chef). We were to spend 3 days out in the field.

The night before, after dinner, we met in the library and Marty took us through the program we were to cover in the next 3 days. A essential first step - check the weather forecast.

Forecast for Wednesday 
Cloudy with rain increasing during the morning, then easing to a few showers
during the afternoon before clearing for a period in the evening. Low cloud and
mist at times during the morning and early afternoon.
Winds: Northwesterly 25 to 35 knots, reaching 40 knots ahead of a west to
northwesterly change at 20 to 30 knots in the afternoon. Winds then tending
westerly 25 to 35 knots late.
Seas: Seas: 3 to 4 metres, abating for a period in the afternoon. Swell: Westerly 3 to 4 metres.

Outlook for Thursday 
Cloudy with a few showers, increasing to rain during the morning then easing to
a few showers again in the evening.
Winds: Westerly 25 to 35 knots, tending northwesterly 30 to 40 knots during the
morning before shifting west to southwesterly at similar speeds in the late
afternoon and evening. Seas: 3 to 4 metres. Swell: Westerly building to 5 to 6
metres.

So as you can see it was going to be wet and windy for our first 2 days in the field. We also reviewed what we would need to take in our survival pack and what gear and clothes to wear.

Day 1

Up early, rechecked my survival pack, then met with Marty, Aaron, and Tony in the mess for a session on navigation and map and compass use. We then went to our rooms and dressed in our wet weather gear and then met at the porch of the mess at 1100.

After turning our fire tags and writing our intentions on the fire board we proceeded to the green store where we were taught how to adjust our packs, which were also weighed (all around 14kg). It was then off to the comms building, where we each picked up a radio, PIRB and GPS, with Aaron also piciking up a 'spot' tracker.

By noon we were on our way - first along the East Beach to Gadgets Gully.

At the bottom of Gadgets Gully ready to make the 'jump up'

We made our way slowly up Gadgets Gully following the rocky bed of the creek. we were protected from the wind, though the rain was persistent. When we reached the top of the gully we were buffeted by the gale force westerly winds and visibility was down to a hundred metres as we were now in the cloud. We climbed steadily up the sloping track, which was mostly ankle deep in mud.

After reaching the junction of the Gadgets, Overland (OLT) and Island Lakes (ILT) tracks we stopped for a short break before proceeding along the ILT. The rain was driven horizontally, with our packs behaving like a sail. It took concentration to stay on our feet and try not to step into the deeper mud puddles. We stopped after an hour to have lunch, next to a small hill, at which we tried to find a position among the rocks to shelter from the wind. 

Aaron, sheltering behind the rocks to have his lunch

Trough the foggy, driving rain we managed to glimpse some land marks that were close to the track - Scoble Lake then further along we crossed a very narrow strip of land that divides Island Lake. This was eerie as all we could see was the narrow strip of beach, 3 to 4 metres wide and the water on either side.

We finally had Emerald Lake on our left and knew that it was all downhill from here. We dropped out of the cloud and though it was still raining, we could see our destination down the gently sloping valley. We could also see the west coast and Bauer Bay.

Marty Tony and I making our way down the gentle slope towards Bauer Bay

After dropping into a wide, sandy creek bed we made our way to Bauer Bay Hut on the southern bank of the creek bed. After checking that the power ,gas  and water isolation switches were ok we started up the RAPS (Remote Area Power System/Supply). We then got out of our wet muddy gear and slowly warmed ourselves by the heater and a hot cup of tea.

It was very comfortable in the hut and soon we had pasta cooking on the stove. While it was cooking Aaron carried out repairs on his torn outer pants - As we could not find a sewing kit, Aaron the ingenious one, fashioned a needle out of a piece of a steel guitar string and used dental floss for thread. 

After the tasty pasta we prepared some custard with re-hydrated dried fruit. 

We eventually settled for the night in cosy sleeping bags, while the gale force winds and rain persisted outside our nice warm cocoon.

The windswept, sandy creek bed at Bauer Bay - on the right of picture a rugged part of the coast can be seen known as Boiler Rocks

Bauer Bay Hut at sunset

The view from Bauer Bay hut looking east towards the plateau

Aaron carrying out repairs on his pants using part of a guitar string and dental floss

Tony (chef and Aaron inside the well appointed Bauer Bay hut

Day 2

Up early - put the kettle and heater on (have to isolate gas overnight - risk of carbon monoxide). After a nice hot breakfast of porridge, Marty took us through a session of map reading and navigation as well as planning the days walk. We cleaned the hut and packed ready to go. Put on our walking clothes (layers) which were still a little damp from the previous days walk.

Bauer Bay hut - seemed a little brighter, though it was still quite windy

Inside Bauer Bay hut - morning lesson in map reading and navigation

We departed Bauer Bay just after 10am - making our way down the beach towards Mawson Point. We then made our way through some very scenic area of rock stacks (the Labyrinth) on Mawson Point, covered with many shades of green and brown vegetation - it was a stunning walk. Unfortunately it was still raining so I could only take opportunistic photos with my small point and shoot camera.

Aaron, Marty and Tony walking through the beautiful landscape

The stunning scenery in the 'Labyrinth' on Mawson Point

A little while later we came out on the flat coastal plain known as the featherbed. Walking on this unique landform is like walking on a thick sponge. The ground or featherbed bog trembles and moves underfoot. In some parts, there are pools amongst the featherbed that can be metres deep. As with many  other parts of the island traversing this landscape requires concentration, as a step in the wrong direction  could end in complete submersion.

On the featherbed - Tony and Aaron dressed for the protection against the elements

The featherbed on the west coast south of Bauer Bay

After walking across the featherbed for a while we approached a small ridge in the mostly flat countryside. We walked to the top of the ridge where we gazed upon a spectacular sight. Just beyond was the wide Flat Creek bed. The flat sandy creek bed contained thousands of royal penguins. Marty mentioned that there were twice the number of penguins just a week ago. Still it was an amazing scene.

The remnants of the Royal penguin summer breeding colony in Flat Creek

After crossing Flat Creek we tracked east towards the steep slopes. We picked a narrow gully to climb up to the plateau. The still, gale force winds were at our back and as we reached the top of the gully the winds were 'squeezed' and I estimate they were gusting over 50 knots. With a backpack, heavy with the constant rain, it was hard to keep your feet as the wind pushed us over the ridge.

We then trudged through the bog in the wide valley of Flat Creek. Occasionally one of us would be sink in a bog hole up to their knee/s. Luckily the wind was at our back because we were experiencing constant snow showers, sometimes turning into hail pellets. Slowly we travelled southeast until we came to an area where the creek split into several arms. We had to cross one of these smaller creeks, constantly sinking shin deep into the quagmire. 

At one section I sunk into the bog up to my knees. With the heavy pack it was an effort to extract myself, then, only after a couple of steps, sink again up to my knees. The bog was like thick honey or treacle and quite hard to get out off. I had to remove my pack, then crawl on hands and knees to higher, less boggy ground, dragging my pack behind me (with a little help from the others).

After reaching higher ground, the going was a little easier. 

We eventually ventured onto the Overland Track, and followed it south for around 500 metres to a small ridge. Here we were treated to a magnificent vista southward across the Red River valley and the distant peaks further south. 

On the Overland Track looking south across Red River valley and the peaks of the southern part of the island

After a short rest admiring the view, we backtracked along the OLT and veered right along the Brothers Track. Then it was a 2 kilometre hike, mostly along a gentle downhill slope to Brothers Point hut, our home for the night.

On the Brothers Track looking southeast

On the Brothers Track looking north

Brothers Point hut - fibreglass 'googie'

What a beautiful spot Brothers Point is - the hut overlooks Sandy Bay. What a bonus to have Tony with us. He made pizzas (from scratch) for dinner. A great end to a fabulous day, despite the weather and the tough terrain.

Brothers Point RAPS - self contained unit with wind generator , solar panel and backup generator with fuel supply

Brothers Point hut - small water tank on the left and the narrow timber structure attached to the right side is a shower enclosure

Stilbocarpa Polaris - Macquarie Island cabbage was used by the early explorers and sealers as a food source to prevent scurvy

View form Brothers Point hut southward to Sandy Bay (can just see the Nuggets in the distance)

Day 3

Overnight the hut was shaken by the wind and constantly pelted by hail. Before breakfast we had a radio sched with VJM (station). The forecast was read out and then the occupants of each hut around the island gave their intentions for the day. Ours was to walk from Brothers Point back to station via the East coast. 

After a breakfast Marty went through all the items that are available in the huts extensive medical kit (same kit at each hut). We then cleaned up and were on our way just after 10am. 

The first part of our walk (100m) was quite hazardous as we negotiated the deep muddy track down to the beach. Then it was a pleasant stroll along the long sweeping beach of Sandy Bay.

Just before leaving Brothers Point hut

A pleasant stroll along the beach at Sandy Bay - Brothers Point hut in the distance 

At the end of Sandy Bay we encountered a number of King penguins. Also up from the beach is a boardwalk, that has been set up for the summer tourists that come by cruise ships to visit a active Royal penguin colony.

King penguins at the northern end of Sandy Bay

What remains of the huge Royal penguin colony up the slope at the northern end of Sandy Bay.  In summer this colony is packed with many thousands of penguins

Some of the Royal penguins marching through a group of King penguins at Sandy Bay

Sandy Bay - a King penguin that has just come out of the water

Just around the point at the northern end of Sandy Bay is a huge King penguin colony. Amongst the colony is a historic hut. Today the hut is used by the Rangers to store equipment used during the summer.

Large King penguin colony just north of Sandy Bay

Historic hut amongst the King penguins

Large gathering of King penguins

King penguin colony just north of Sandy Bay

Once past the King penguin colony we continued north. This part of the walk took us across numerous small coves and beaches separated by tussock covered rocky points. We stopped for lunch just north of the location of the shipwreck of the Jessie Niccol, which was wrecked nearby in 1910. We then continued on to the Nuggets. On the way we encountered many young elephant seals on the beaches and the smaller though more vocal fur seals who preferred to be amongst the rocks and tussocks.

Scrambling along the rugged East coast

Crossing one of the many tussock covered points between Sandy Bay and Nuggets Point 

Tony, Aaron and Marty heading north along the beach towards Nuggets Point

At Nuggets Point there is another historic site - where we saw the rusty remains of several digesters. Also there were many pieces of old timber, being the remnants of a long abandoned community that was part of the penguin harvest industry of the late 19th and early 20th century. At the northern end of the site are the graves of Charles Anderson and Otto Bauer.

A different view of the Nuggets 

The rusty remains of the digesters at Nuggets Point - left over form the penguin harvest industry in the late 19th and early 20th Century

The graves of Charles Anderson and Otto Bauer at Nuggets Point 

As we were standing there at the mouth of Nuggets Creek a group of Royal penguins came down a track along the southern bank of the creek. They were all in a single file and were using a well worn track. Marty pointed out an area way up the creek gully where we could see a large penguin colony. But he then pointed to an area way up the slope to where we could see penguins even higher up the slopes. Apparently they had rookeries around 200 metres above sea level. It seemed an awfully long way to come for a feed of fish.

Royal penguins marching in single file down to the water

Royal penguins on the beach at Nuggets Point

Can you see the penguins high up the creek gully?

To continue north we had to safely cross Nuggets Point. To do this we had to travel up through the tussock alongside Nuggets Creek and then cross the ridge down to the beach north of the point. 

On top of the ridge of Nuggets Point - looking north towards North Head and the station in the distance

A spectacular rock stack on the beach north of Nuggets Point

Elephant seals hanging out on the beach

Once past the rugged, rocky bit of coast near Halfway Hill it was a pleasant stroll along the final stretch of East Beach back to station.

One last navigation and map reading exercise

We arrived back at station just before 5pm so had time for a hot shower and dress into some dry warm clothes, before heading off to a lovely dinner prepared by Tony H (in chefs absence).

Despite the wet, windy and cold weather, wet boots and aching muscles, I felt so lucky that I was able to go on such an awesome field trip.

Thanks to Marty, it was great to finally get off station and down island.

In the end we covered nearly 30 kilometres rough, undulating, muddy terrain.

Until Next Time....